
(the finished product!)
One of our very dear, amazingly-talented seamstress pals couldn't believe we'd never installed an invisible zipper before. And we couldn't believe her when she told us they were really quick and easy. That was a little over a year ago. Since then, we Long ladies have never purchased another regular zipper! Because, you know, the invisible kind really are simpler after all.
So... if you've never ventured into the world of invisible zippers, now's the time! Hopefully, this little tutorial will help.
easy-peasy invisible zipper installation -- with pictures!
What you will need for this project:
~A garment, of course. For our method of installation, your garment will have to be finished, except for the side seam. (For example, if you're making a skirt with a facing, the facing will need to be completely finished, except for the zippered-side seam. All of our sewing patterns use this technique.)
~A zipper foot to fit your machine. Coats & Clark makes these, but some machines (like our Janomes) require specially-made invisible zipper feet. The foot...
~An invisible zipper that matches your project. We like to use 12-14" zippers when making skirts, and 20-22" zippers for dresses or (most) jumpers.
Note: These instructions are similar to the Coats & Clark way, with the typical Long-lady-tweaking. As always, we love to hear about your tips and tricks, too!
Step 1- First of all, when installing invisible zippers, you'll need to leave the entire side seam of your garment OPEN. Now, un-zip your zipper. From the wrong side, iron the zipper coils flat. You should see two rows of stitching. We like to lay our zippers on top of an old towel to keep them from slipping around while we iron. Oh yes -- and be sure not to press them for too long, or they'll melt! (Been there, done that.)
Step 2 - Align the top of the zipper teeth with the top edge of your garment, with right sides together. Using your seam gauge, pin the zipper to your garment at 5/8". Basically, there will be 5/8" from the raw edge of your unfinished seam to the edge of the zipper. (The zipper teeth will be facing down, furthest from the raw edge.)
Step 3 - Position your zipper foot over the teeth of your zipper. The teeth should fit nicely into the little groove in the foot. Start stitching, being sure to back-stitch at the beginning of your seam. Stitch until the zipper stop stops you. (Almost to the very bottom of the zipper.) Back-stitch again.
Step 4 - Flip the free half of your zipper over onto the free side of your garment, so the right sides are facing. (Did that make any sense?) Now pin & stitch the zipper onto the garment, using the instructions in Step 2. You should now have a functioning zipper, with the side seam below it completely open. (You'll have to turn the zipper pull "right side out", before you can zip it up.)
(before you flip the zipper over.................... then after the right sides are together)
Once you've stitched the other half of your zipper to the other side of your skirt (and flipped the zipper pull right side out), it should look like this...
Step 5 - Zip up your zipper, about half way. Lay your skirt (inside out) with the side seams together. Pin the rest of the side seam closed. Starting about 1/8" from the zipper seam and approximately 3/8" from the bottom of the stitching, start stitching your side seam closed. (After you've sewn about 2 1/2" down, you'll probably want to remove your zipper foot and switch to your regular foot.)
Step 6 - Clip into the side seam right below the end of your zipper tape. Finish the seam below the clip. Press seam to one side.
Step 7 - (If you don't have any pinking sheers, you can skip this step. We like to pink the seams because it helps to prevent fraying.) Pink the edge of the fabric alongside the zipper tape. So it looks like this, when you're through...
Step 8 - Go back up to the top of your zipper. Fold the zipper tape under the seam allowance, and pin in place. From the right side, topstitch at 1/4" down about 1/2". This should catch your zipper tape neatly.
Voila! It's all done. (You may hem your skirt now.)
Happy sewing!
xoxo, the Long ladies
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